DIGEST: MAKEWORKS DIRECTORY GOES LIVE, ERNEST WRIGHT, NEW CRAFTSMEN BRITISH SOUVENIR SHOP OPEN, ERNEST WRIGHT, OLD NEWS ROUND-UP

The Make Works Directory makes sourcing factories, fabricators, workshops and facilities simple, allowing you to find local fabricators, material suppliers and facilities.

We spend most of our time hunting out the best fabricators for artists and designers to work with. Then, we make films, take photographs and collect the practical information required and showcase them on the Directory. The aim is to enable the production of work locally.

A great resource and fascinating project (Makeworks)

(Photo of Jamieson's of Shetland from Makeworks)

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The Real British Souvenir Shop is open until 31st August 2014 at The New Craftsmen, 34 North Row, W1K 6DG

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At Work: Ernest Wright: The head of Sheffield’s remaining scissor-dynasty, Nick Wright talks to us about his family business, producing quality traditional scissors whose Edwardian designs satisfy a modern audience (Port Magazine)

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A film of The Making of a Globe-Trotter suitcase (Telegraph Luxury)
(for more on Globe-Trotter, see here)

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A visit to Barrington Pottery in Somerset (Foodie Bugle)

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Old news round-up:

Reinventing Scottish Knitwear: Decades of poor management and cheap overseas competition brought the once booming Scottish knitwear industry to its knees. Today, with a new end-consumer focus and artisanal manufacturing, there is also newfound confidence in Hawick and the border mill towns of Scotland. (Business of Fashion)

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Introducing Story Mfg: The UK denim scene is on the rise. Over the past few years a select number of British based designers including have been championing the “Made in England” stamp of approval on their proudly crafted jeans that are eagerly nipping on the heels of their US and Japanese counterparts. (WGSN)

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Harris Tweed weaver made 10,000 yards of fabric for Nike (FT)

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Cadbury's boss says 'Bournville lagging behind its European counterparts' (Birmingham Post)

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Brew Small, Think Big: Micro-breweries are booming and Londoners are thirsty for more craft beer. But is it possible to scale up and stay special? (Ico Design)

DIGEST: SHEFFIELD STEEL, A SCOTTISH TOUR, A NEW MAGAZINE ON BRITISH CRAFT

Photographer Andrew Smith has recently released a book documenting some of Sheffield's Forgemasters (one such image above). Entitled Steel Soul, the photos bring to mind the work of Maurice Broomfield

One to keep an eye on: Make Works, a Scottish based collective, is touring the country's factories this summer

The New Craftsmen: interesting new retail concept centred around British made luxury products

One of those brands is Doe Leather, which has a nice backstory and is hosting a workshop in London on 26th June

Margaret Howell's success in Japan (Telegraph)

Paul of S.E.H Kelly explains the background of the menswear label (Port Magazine)

The Anti-craft movement at the one man mill (S.E.H Kelly)

Interview with editor of new magazine on British craftsmanship, Hole & Corner (Cool Hunting)

Teaser for the next issue of drinks magazine Hot Rum Cow, which is whisky focussed this time around

A couple of audio pieces on Cambridge Satchel Company (from 18.25) and New Balance's Flimby factory (from 25.50) (Monocle 24)

Airfix reshoring some manufacturing (Guardian)

At Freed of London, ballet shoe makers (Spitalfields Life)

DIGEST: WHISKY - DEWAR'S AND GLENGOYNE

A history of Dewar's, the Scotch whisky, including detail on the brilliantly outlandish marketing ideas employed by Tommy Dewar (Class Magazine)

A photographic essay of production at The Glengoyne whisky distillery in Killearn, Scotland (Port Magazine)

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Photo by Emli Bendixen for Port

RECENT DIGEST

A great feature on barley and brewing, preceded by a story on tea harvesting. Fantastic stuff from Farming Today. (Radio 4, note: only available until Friday morning)

Where Thomas Heatherwick's Olympic cauldron was made: Stage One, Yorkshire (Telegraph)

If you're in Edinburgh anytime soon you might like to visit the Dovecote Studios where Douglas Grierson is master weaver (Department of Small Works)

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Photo of Olympic cauldron petals from the (rather good) Olympic Opening Ceremony tumblr

WEEKLY DIGEST

A master shirtmaker in Kent (S.E.H Kelly)

Tools for Everyday Life from Northumbria University (Sight Unseen)

Information on Birmingham Made Me, a showcase of products made in the West Midlands (Pashley News)

Scotch is big business - Diageo said to be investing £1bn (FT)

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Photo from S.E.H Kelly

WEEKLY DIGEST

Short film on British Design in 2012, promoting the recently opened exhibition at the V&A (OEN)

Interview with Bristol based bike frame builder Robin Mather (Rapha)

Buying British (Guardian)

Olympic torch wins Design of the Year award (Creative Review)

Airbus and Boeing boosted by passenger jet boom (Telegraph)

Inside a Glaswegian letterpress (Form Fifty Five via It's Nice That)

Creatives are manufacturers (Computer Arts)

BT to sell off iconic K6 phoneboxes (FT)

Interview with furniture designer Michael Marriott (Spitalfields Life)

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Photo of Michael Marriott from Spitalfields Life

WEEKLY DIGEST

A fashion revival made in England, focussing on Albam (Bloomberg Businessweek)

Paola Antonelli on handmade design, including Wedgwood: an informative article, worth reading (Domus)

Details on an event celebrating the 'Best of Britannia' this autumn in London (Event)

A handful of positive stories on manufacturing in Scotland (Scotsman)

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Photo by Tina Cheng for Bloomberg Businessweek

THE MAKING OF TALISKER WHISKY

The Talisker distillery has been producing its sweet and peaty single-malt whisky on the shore of Skye’s Loch Harport since 1830. Key to this whisky’s unique character is the distillery’s insistence on simple, traditional methods of production.

“There are only four ingredients in Talisker: water, yeast, barley and peat,” says distillery manager Mark Lochhead. “So it’s important to use the best water possible. Luckily, on Skye we’re blessed with amazingly pure spring water.” Contrary to what many people might believe, however, Talisker’s peaty flavour isn’t down to the water; it’s introduced in the form of peat smoke as the malted barley is dried in the kiln. This malt is then crushed into a coarse powder called grist and is mixed with hot water in a large copper mash tun.

The sugary water (or wort, as it’s known) is drained from the mash tun and pumped into wooden vats, where yeast is added. The wort is then left beer-like substance called wash. Next, the wash is double-distilled using the five traditional, steam-heated copper stills, resulting in a strong, clear spirit.

“Traditionally, Scots would drink this straight from the still,” says Talisker expert Donald Colville. “But they realised that after storing it in wooden casks, it tasted a hell of a lot better. And that’s why we do the same today.”

The whisky is stored for up to 30 years in the casks, some of which are recycled from the Kentucky bourbon industry. Over time, the oak imparts a mellow, buttery flavour full of toffee and vanilla notes. “I have no idea how the bourbon cask tradition started,” admits Donald. “It was probably the idea of a tight-fisted Scot who thought he’d save some money by reusing old wood. But what I do know is that you end up with hugely varying flavours depending on the time you leave the whisky to mature.”

Abridged and adapted from Waitrose Magazine

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The method of producing Talisker is very similar to that which I learnt about whilst visiting Laphroaig and Bowmore on Islay in summer 2011.

HARRIS TWEED : FROM LAND TO STREET, BY LARA PLATMAN

"Our world is increasingly one devoid of reality and humanity. As our lives are played out over the ether - by electronic mail and instant message, in online shops - we are becoming detached from what is real and substantial and true," writes Patrick Grant in the foreword to this stunning book of photographs by Lara Platman.

The book was published to coincide with the 100th anniversary of Harris Tweed's trademark Orb stamp and is a fitting tribute to the only fabric that has its own legislation. 'Harris Tweed means a tweed that has been hand-woven by the islanders at their homes in the Outer Hebrides, finished in the Outer Hebrides, and made from pure virgin wool dyed and spun in the Outer Hebrides' goes the definition which became statutory when it was passed in 1993.

Having endured a fall in demand during the 90s and early part of this century, the Harris Tweed industry has steadied, meaning there is demand for weavers once again.

Covering the entire process - from wool to mill to weaver and on to finished article, Platman introduces the reader to some of the people who have benefitted from the resurgence of this beautiful material. Alongside some good portrait photos of the weavers, mill workers and farmers, are short descriptions of their daily lives and working ways.

The book provides a suitable entry level of detail. Details on the different sheep breeds tell the reader about Blackface sheep - dating from the 12th century and the original wool source for Harris Tweed. Nowadays Scottish cross breeds and Cheviot sheep from the Borders are used. These allow for softer tweeds to be produced, meeting modern demand for such fabrics.

"I hope... that my depiction of those who work with Harris Tweed will be a reminder of some of the skills that are alive in Britain today," writes Platman in her introduction. Harris Tweed: From Land to Street is more than a reminder. It is a celebration of the production of one of Britain's finest items. And it certainly has the substance and truth that Patrick Grant mentions in his foreword.

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Harris Tweed: From Land to Street is published by Frances Lincoln

With thanks to Emma at Frances Lincoln

DISTILLERY VISIT NO.2 : LAPHROAIG, ISLAY

The photos from the visit to Laphroaig whisky distillery are now up on the M&I Facebook page. Here is a selection. As explained previously, the distilleries of Islay offer group tours, therefore it was unlike most M&I visits and is without the usual write up.




A great deal of information on Laphroaig is available on the company's website.

DISTILLERY VISIT NO.1 : BOWMORE

A couple of weeks ago we visited Islay, off the west coast of Scotland. Home to several famous whisky distilleries, the island is a fascinating mix of windswept beauty and small industry. Whilst there we visited Bowmore and Laphroaig. First up was Bowmore.

Unlike previous visits, this one was purely for tourists so a full write up is unnecessary as the information we acquired is readily available on the distillery website. One of the most impressive aspects of the visit was how geared up the distilleries were for tours, providing a great level of detail alongside showing the full process of making the product.

Apologies for poor quality photos, taken on phone. Expect a marked improvement in the Laphroaig installment.

WEEKLY DIGEST

John Rushton By Ivan Ogilvie from Ivan Ogilvie on Vimeo.

The week's stories on manufacturing and design in the UK:

John Rushton on English shoes in a video from Utile (also above)

Margareta Pagano makes a good argument in The Independent on what needs to be done to ensure the UK's manufacturing sector continues to grow

An in-depth article on Moorhouse, the Burnley based brewery from The Publican's Morning Advertiser

Meanwhile, the brewing industry braces itself for barley shortage

How traditional satchels made by a Cambridge mother and daughter became a global hit (admittedly this story actually made the news last week but was missed)

Nice post on Scottish knitwear for children over on Make it British

Spitalfields Life visits the Algha Spectacle Works in Hackney Wick, London

Coventry pride at making of Olympic torch

Two good bits of news for the auto industry this week, Mini safeguards 5,000 jobs with announcement it'll make new cars here. Meanwhile, Nissan also announces it will make the new Qashqai in the UK

Oh, and not that anyone mentioned it, but there's a parliamentary search for the 'Best of British Manufacturing' going on

DESIGN FOR INDUSTRY MAGAZINE : SCOTTISH INDUSTRIES EXHIBITION 1959

Another issue of Design for Industry magazine here. This one is from Aug/Sep 1959. Featured on the spreads (if you click on them they will increase in size, albeit in a rather clunky fashion) is the Scottish Industries Exhibition that featured 'more than 200 firms representing 100 industries... showing goods of Scottish manufacture'. According to the article, the previous fairs (in 1949 and 1954) attracted more than a million visitors, with buyers from over 100 countries placing orders of more than £20m.

'Germans, Japanese and the Swiss are untiring in their efforts to sell their products abroad. We must do the same,' advises Mr Matthew H Donaldson, General Manager of the exhibition.

Images on the spread above, from top left; clockwise: coils by The Distillers Co, Ltd of Grangemouth, 201k sewing machine made by Singer Manufacturing Co, Ltd, Clydebank, a 42,000 ton tanker built at John Brown's shipyard on Clydebank, Dunvegan Castle, Isle of Skye, sunken fire with hammered copper canopy exhibited by Allied Iron-founders Ltd, Falkirk, Burns memorial, Brig o' Doon, Alloway, desk adding and subtracting machine made at the Strathleven factory of Burroughs Adding Machine Ltd.

Images on single page,from top left; clockwise: Olivetti typewriter, made in Glasgow, compressor by Alley & MacLellan (Polmadie) Ltd., The Trossachs from Wallace Memorial, Stirling and a Series HD 8 track-type tractor by Caterpillar Tractor Co, Ltd. (Glasgow)

WEEKLY DIGEST

A round up of the week's stories from manufacturing and design:

James Dyson on the hunt for the next great inventor, entries now open until August

Scottish knitwear manufacturer has 'healthy order book'

British manufacturers losing out to foreign rivals

UK 'most likely' base for new Rolls Royce plant

And another thing...

With the Southbank Centre's Festival of Britain 60th anniversary celebrations underway you might want to have a look at a post from last September, featuring the original Festival of Britain catalogue.

APC CHIEF 'COMMITTED TO SCOTTISH KNITWEAR'

'I am committed now to wearing Scottish knitwear. I consider it a political statement. It's not even that much more expensive than Chinese knits and it lasts a lot longer.'

It's not often that we enjoy reading interviews with fashion designers but this one with APC chief Jean Touitou in Hint Fashion Magazine made us smile.

A good weekend to all our readers.

Factory image from Robert Noble

PROTECTION FOR FAIR ISLE KNITWEAR

A recent short article in The Economist highlights the all too familiar issues surrounding the production of Fair Isle garments. Here are a couple of choice quotes:

'Only 70 people live on Fair Isle itself and only four of them knit. Each sweater takes about 100 hours; the island's annual production is about 30 sweaters, 200 hats and 30 scarves. These are sold only in the island shop, which is cleared out when the summer's first cruise ship calls, says Mati Ventrillon, a French-Venezuelan who runs the craft co-operative.' (The Economist)

'My ladies are in their 70s and 80s. They learned it from their grandmothers, but no one is learning from them.' (Ms. Teresa Fritschi, an American who runs a Scottish luxury-goods website and believes the island's knitters could earn much more if Fair Isle products enjoyed the same legal protection against imitation as Harris Tweed.)

Image from Reel Knitting

ONE TO KEEP A TIE ON...

We're keeping a close eye on developments at Marwood. Of great interest is this recent work documenting a visit to Berwick-on-Tweed and the studio of a tie-maker named Frances. We look forward to seeing more soon.

(Image from Callum Toy)

FAIR ISLE JUMPERS ON BUSINESS OF FASHION... WELL I NEVER

'FAIR ISLE, United Kingdom — On the most remote inhabited island in Britain, 24 miles south of the Shetland mainland, 27 miles north of the Orkney Islands and 250 miles west of Norway, it’s always sweater season. With 600-foot cliffs overlooking the North Sea, thousands of acres of peat bog and a climate that’s perennially cool and damp, Fair Isle is a rugged place where wool is a way of life.'

So starts an informative piece on the usually luxury brand-centric fashion site Business of Fashion. Briefly covering the history of the remote island's knitwear industry, the article discusses the 'missed opportunity' that some of the natives believe has passed their unique product by.

'Classic design, quality and authenticity matter,' the article continues, 'At the same time, increasingly informed and selective shoppers are asking more and more questions about where and how their products are made. They want to know that the whole life of their product was thought about and guided by the same care and attention as the finished piece.' Hear hear.

Image from Fair Isle

TUNNOCK'S - MORE THAN 5,000,000 BISCUITS MADE AND SOLD EVERY WEEK