DIGEST: SHEFFIELD STEEL, A SCOTTISH TOUR, A NEW MAGAZINE ON BRITISH CRAFT

Photographer Andrew Smith has recently released a book documenting some of Sheffield's Forgemasters (one such image above). Entitled Steel Soul, the photos bring to mind the work of Maurice Broomfield

One to keep an eye on: Make Works, a Scottish based collective, is touring the country's factories this summer

The New Craftsmen: interesting new retail concept centred around British made luxury products

One of those brands is Doe Leather, which has a nice backstory and is hosting a workshop in London on 26th June

Margaret Howell's success in Japan (Telegraph)

Paul of S.E.H Kelly explains the background of the menswear label (Port Magazine)

The Anti-craft movement at the one man mill (S.E.H Kelly)

Interview with editor of new magazine on British craftsmanship, Hole & Corner (Cool Hunting)

Teaser for the next issue of drinks magazine Hot Rum Cow, which is whisky focussed this time around

A couple of audio pieces on Cambridge Satchel Company (from 18.25) and New Balance's Flimby factory (from 25.50) (Monocle 24)

Airfix reshoring some manufacturing (Guardian)

At Freed of London, ballet shoe makers (Spitalfields Life)

RECENT READING DIGEST

Photos (and a lovely write up) of an outerwear factory in north London (SEH Kelly)

A series of essays exploring the importance of design and craft today, including an essay from Another Country's Paul De Zwart (Danish Crafts)

Interesting features on British creatives, including Scottish craft beer brewers Brewdog and Midlands-based textile designer Tori Murphy (We Heart)

A video of Sebastian Conran talking about what makes British products (Design Council)

Whitechapel Bell Foundry is offering 'special' tours during the Olympics (Londonist)

David Hieatt of Hiut Denim on 'the age of the specialist' (eatbigfish)

A great map of British factories - from furniture to flannel (Margaret Howell)

-

Photo from SEH Kelly

WEEKLY DIGEST

Audio slideshows of British bike builders: Tom Donhou, Sam Humpheson, Rourke Cycles and Ricky Feather (Rapha)

A film on Lincolnshire furniture maker Sebastian Cox (OEN)

Equal Rights for Design campaign (Make it British)

The British Are Coming! Featuring E Tautz, Turnbull & Asser and Alfred Dunhill (WSJ)

Some pictures (by Koto Bolofo) of the factory where Margaret Howell gets her shirts made (Margaret Howell)

Speaking of Howell, an article from 2007 which talks about her home and its aesthetic (Independent)

Luggage company Globe-Trotter featured on the radio (at 38mins) (M24)

A sadly predictable story of the British beer situation at the Olympics (SIBA)

WEEKLY DIGEST

Some great photos of Bentley's factory in Crewe (Selectism)

Margaret Howell's top 10 product designs (Guardian)

Apprenticeships in the spotlight on Radio 4 programme In Business (BBC R4)

Jaguar Land Rover to open new plant in Wolverhampton (Telegraph)

WEEKLY DIGEST

Margaret Howell talks about 'the skill and expertise often found in British heritage products' in an interview for Liberty

Tom Whipple of The Times does a quick round up of London's blossoming brewing scene, including Meantime, Sambrook's and Fuller's, amongst others

Nestle's York factory has reduced its waste to zero

Alicia White of The Telegraph writes about some British made clothing brands, including Cherchbi, Private White VC and Peregrine

Picture of Margaret Howell from here

NIGEL CABOURN : A BRIEF Q&A

M&I was presented with the opportunity to ask Nigel Cabourn some questions this week. The well respected menswear designer is based in Gosforth, Newcastle Upon Tyne and for the last four years has been producing a collection that is solely made in England using British fabrics. The label is called Authentic and uses 15 manufacturers in the UK who, according to Mr Cabourn 'are all making a very special product at a very high level.'

Here is our brief Q&A in full:

M&I: In a recent interview you said "I make everything in England, which isn't easy these days. It's a labour of love." – Can you explain what drives you to make your garments here?

NC: That’s pretty easy, it’s the authenticity. I love making authentic, real products - I am not interested in fashion... just something that is truly real. I go to great lengths to find manufacturers who make those real clothes. For example, our cold weather parkas were worn in the war, and I sourced out the original manufacturer. It makes it really special and authentic. I want it real. Not fashion. Function and quality is key to me. I want it to last forever. Everything made by Cabourn has huge longevity; it’s something you can pass down to your kids.

A Nigel Cabourn Authentic Tenzing Jacket

M&I: Is the renewed interest in products made in the UK having an impact on your business?

NC: I would say yes, hugely. Generally there is a huge interest in heritage garments. I think our advantage is that our company has been going for 40 years. We have a fashion heritage as well as a real heritage - that’s what makes us special.

M&I: As a leading designer creating UK made products how do you feel about the likes of Burberry and Jack Wills purporting Britishness?

NC: I don’t mind with Burberry, I think they have every right; they are an old establishment. After all, they did dress Captain Scott, who was the first British man to cross Antarctica in 1912 - his whole crew was kitted out in Burberry. (It’s actually Scott's 100th anniversary next year and I am doing a collection for this.) But I feel that Burberry has every right. Jack Wills - it’s a completely different story.

M&I: Can you explain the inspiration for your Aircraft Jacket please?

NC: The idea originally came from a British RAF jacket, which was worn by pilots during WW2. However this jacket is only inspired by the WW2 jackets, and then we took it into a new development fabric of beeswax and oil cloth which we did last year.

M&I: Can you tell us more about your bag range?

NC: We are making more bags. We are working very closely with a very famous old fishing company, similar to Barbour, but who always specialized in old fishing bags from the 1920s, called Brady (based in Walsall.) The start of our relationship was based on my interest in vintage fishing bags. Recently I discovered that a couple of my favourite styles are old Brady bags from the 30s and 40s. I suggested to Brady that we do a collaboration, they were very excited and that’s what we are doing today.

Concept board for AW 11

M&I: What does the remainder of 2011 hold for Nigel Cabourn?

NC: What it holds for me is to get all of my winter production made beautifully and out on time. For us to go out over the summer and have a fantastic spring season - those are the two key things. Then we will start putting our minds on the opening of our shop in New York for July 2012.

M&I: Ok, to finish off, some lighter questions; what's on your bedside table?

NC: At present- Scott of the Antarctic- Im reading it because I want to do a collection for AW12 based on his expedition.

M&I: Do you favour any other UK made brands/products?

NC: Margaret Howell - I wear one or two pieces of her pieces, particularly the shirts. I like that it’s a bit more basic and not over the top.

M&I: And finally, what is your favourite walk?

NC: I don’t have a favourite walk, and I’d like to say I do, as I do enjoy walking. When I get the opportunity I like walking in the lakes.

FOOTNOTE: Many thanks to Nigel, Kiomi and Drew at Nigel Cabourn for their time and help. Kiomi has recently set up the company blog which is well worth a look.

ERCOL IN THE INDEPENDENT

A nice little piece by Kate Watson-Smyth in The Independent today on the Ercol Butterfly chair. Here's the pick of the quotes:

'Ercolani had perfected the technique of steam-bending wood into curves as well as drying elm with steam so that it wouldn't warp. These methods allowed him to produce both the classic Windsor and curvy Butterfly.'

'Lucian was always fiddling with the designs and the boardroom is full of prototypes that didn't quite work or didn't last very long.' (Edward Tadros, Ercolani's grandson)

Interesting to note that the Butterfly went out of production in the 1980s and it was not until, in 2000, Margaret Howell spurred the resurgence in popularity of the design by stocking it in her shops.

'Thanks to her, sales of the Butterfly went up again and so we put it back into production.' (Tadros)

Image from eBay

ERCOL - MARGARET HOWELL REISSUES

'It is the combination of quality and craftsmanship and a straightforward, yet elegant approach to the design that attracts me to this particular period of Ercol furniture and has led me to re-evaluate Ercolani's original designs' (Margaret Howell, 2004)