HARRIS TWEED : FROM LAND TO STREET, BY LARA PLATMAN

"Our world is increasingly one devoid of reality and humanity. As our lives are played out over the ether - by electronic mail and instant message, in online shops - we are becoming detached from what is real and substantial and true," writes Patrick Grant in the foreword to this stunning book of photographs by Lara Platman.

The book was published to coincide with the 100th anniversary of Harris Tweed's trademark Orb stamp and is a fitting tribute to the only fabric that has its own legislation. 'Harris Tweed means a tweed that has been hand-woven by the islanders at their homes in the Outer Hebrides, finished in the Outer Hebrides, and made from pure virgin wool dyed and spun in the Outer Hebrides' goes the definition which became statutory when it was passed in 1993.

Having endured a fall in demand during the 90s and early part of this century, the Harris Tweed industry has steadied, meaning there is demand for weavers once again.

Covering the entire process - from wool to mill to weaver and on to finished article, Platman introduces the reader to some of the people who have benefitted from the resurgence of this beautiful material. Alongside some good portrait photos of the weavers, mill workers and farmers, are short descriptions of their daily lives and working ways.

The book provides a suitable entry level of detail. Details on the different sheep breeds tell the reader about Blackface sheep - dating from the 12th century and the original wool source for Harris Tweed. Nowadays Scottish cross breeds and Cheviot sheep from the Borders are used. These allow for softer tweeds to be produced, meeting modern demand for such fabrics.

"I hope... that my depiction of those who work with Harris Tweed will be a reminder of some of the skills that are alive in Britain today," writes Platman in her introduction. Harris Tweed: From Land to Street is more than a reminder. It is a celebration of the production of one of Britain's finest items. And it certainly has the substance and truth that Patrick Grant mentions in his foreword.

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Harris Tweed: From Land to Street is published by Frances Lincoln

With thanks to Emma at Frances Lincoln

JAMES CROPPER SPECIALITY PAPER : PULP-PAPER BOOK

Recently, I received a beautifully packaged book from Mark Cropper, chairman of James Cropper Speciality Paper.

The book is entitled Pulp-Paper and was launched in the summer of 2010. The book is the result of a question: "Can we see how your paper is made?" It is a joint project between James Cropper Speciality Paper, GF Smith, Generation Press and design studio KentLyons.

Over 128 pages, the authors explain how James Cropper makes some of the papers contained in the book. There are also ruminations on the joy of paper from a range of design folk, including Patrick Burgoyne of Creative Review and Nat Hunter of Airside.

Pulp-Paper is available from the Design Museum shop

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Further reading:

James Cropper in Monocle Issue 42, April 2011 (links to PDF which includes breakdown of paper making process)

James Cropper Plc - the development of a modern paper manufacturer by Duncan Hutt in The North West Mills Group Newsletter 45 (1995)

Book review: The Leaves We Write On. James Cropper: A History of Paper Making by Mark Cropper

ON CRAFTSMANSHIP, BY CHRISTOPHER FRAYLING : A REVIEW

On Craftsmanship covers impressive ground over its short 144 pages. Christopher Frayling was in charge of the Arts Council from 2005-2009 and his inherent knowledge of art and design makes this book a joy to read.

A key battle that Frayling fights throughout is that of rethinking the meaning of craft - an 'over-used and much abused term'. Some of this abuse comes from brands - he mentions recent campaigns from Levi's and Camper that use the well soiled word.

However, advertising and branding tends to tap into the current feeling and Frayling acknowledges from the off that craftsmanship has 'again become fashionable'. He cites Richard Sennett's 2009 book The Craftsman as 'timely and even urgent'.

Frayling's eductional background (he taught History at the University of Bath) gives On Craftsmanship some decent weight but never alienates the reader with it. Instead, it couples references to the past with an eye very much on the future. For instance, George Sturt's The Wheelwright's Shop, is lauded (it describes events in a wheelwright's in late 1800s Farnham, Surrey) as 'of considerable interest to anyone who seeks to write about the practice of a particular craft, from an historical or a contemporary point of view'.

According to Frayling hand-work and mass-production existed side by side into the late nineteenth century. 'The specifically English experience of industrialisation involved a close interaction of the two... it was not simply a matter of industry taking over from craft, but of craft within industry'. Frayling returns to this point with the contemporary example of smaller workshops in Italy working together and keeping stable through periods of economic turmoil due to their flexibility. He goes on to write of the possible future for this kind of making: 'Industries of a few people, creating local networks with new kinds of tools, maybe linking with larger networks'.

In one chapter that documents a public dialogue with David Pye (a craftsman, teacher and writer) Frayling talks of the crafts 'edging rapidly... in the direction of abstract art'. Originality over all else seems to be his concern. He finishes the talk with a quote from the poem 'Things Men Have Made' by DH Lawrence that is worthy of sharing and neatly sums up the importance of making:

Things men have made with wakened hands,

and put soft life into are awake through years with

transferred touch,

and go on glowing for long years.

And for this reason, some old things are lovely

warm still with the life of forgotten men who made

them.

The final chapter of the book is entitled 'The New Bauhaus' (which is also part of the subtitle of the book) and is a fantastic blueprint for the future of design education. Let's hope Vince Cable et al read it.

Thanks to George at Oberon for sending a copy of the book, it is much appreciated.

MADE IN BRITAIN, BY EVAN DAVIS : A REVIEW

When M&I found out about Made in Britain by Evan Davis it got rather excited. Then the book arrived (thanks to Little, Brown) in its terribly dull dust jacket and expectations leveled.

Made in Britain is a misleading title. Davis' account is really an economic review of the UK. Therefore it contains very little on (physical) items created here. He visits BAE Systems, McLaren and Brompton - focusing on already well known British manufacturing success stories.

Davis writes in a manner similar to his presenting style on Radio 4 - convivial and easy to understand. There are some nice passages on the history of British manufacturing in the chapter entitled 'How We Got Here' plus some interesting examples of previous 'Back Britain' campaigns (including a 'Help Britain Pen Pal Club' which encouraged children to 'create new friends... future business contacts for your country'; a 60s version of LinkedIn for kids?) Despite these bursts of interesting material, the book suffers from a pervading feeling that it is merely an accompaniment to the TV series of the same name.

"We need to reorient resources away from domestic consumption towards the production of items that can help pay our way in the world," says Davis, in one of his many musings on the importance of manufacturing to the UK economy. He argues his case well throughout, providing a sensible level of optimism on the role of manufacturing working alongside other industries.

Made in Britain is enjoyably upbeat and serves as a sound introduction to how Britain makes money. However, if you are looking for in-depth analysis of the products we make and the people who make them you might want to look elsewhere. It will be interesting to see how the forthcoming TV series works alongside the book.

Reviews of Made in Britain can also be found on the Financial Times and The Independent

Evan Davis is appearing at Foyles on Charing Cross Road on 21st June. Tickets are free and available here.

Photo of Brompton bicycle frame parts from M&I's Facebook album of the visit in March 2011