DIGEST: HOPS, VISIBLE MENDING, SILK WEAVING IN MACCLESFIELD, HORN BUTTONS, THE NEW INDUSTRIAL REVOLUTION

"Present at each stage of production are the standards and inimitable know-how accumulated over the last 150 years. Over that time, a few things have changed — some faster than others — but it’s still the precise same product off the line, same portraits of the founders in the entrance-way, and the same name above the door."

A characteristically well put together piece on the last horn button factory in the UK, in the West Midlands, from S.E.H Kelly. I sometimes struggle to keep up with their output, so I suggest you peruse their site's 'Makers' section in its entirety.

(Picture above from S.E.H Kelly)

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"The project was inspired by an attraction to the aesthetics of these workplaces, but also by an interest in what the practices of fixing, mending, repair and renewal could reveal about the way people value things, and each other."

I came across this site, Celebration of Repair, a little while ago. Delighted to see the research is now available in book form, entitled Visible Mending

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Are British hops the new grapes? (SIBA)

Though, according to this excellent radio programme, there's only 60 hop growers left in the UK (BBC Radio 4)

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"In this two part series, Steph McGovern looks at both the bigger story of silk production, but also takes a close look at how silk shaped one particular town - Macclesfield in Cheshire. Here, silk has been processed, woven and printed for four centuries, and had a profound effect not just upon the built environment but also the social world in which its inhabitants lived."

Another great bit of radio here, on silk weaving (jump to 22.28 to hear about the goings-on at RA Smart near Macclesfield) (BBC Radio 4)

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"Sheffield is one of the best places in the world to get a sense of how new thinking allied with clever technology and global marketing can transform traditional industries"

An insightful article by Peter Marsh on The New Industrial Revolution (The Global Journal)

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An aptly named retail site that highlights where things are made (Provenance)

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An interview with Adam Atkinson of Cherchbi (Grey Fox)

WEEKLY DIGEST

Limited edition Minis to be decked out with Rolls Royce interior touches

Reasonable Royal Wedding product alert: Stoke brewery partners with pottery to produce ceramic bottle

Life at the Dyson R&D dept sounds pretty fun

Retailer to fund UK manufacturing apprenticeships

First new MG in 16 years rolls off production line at Longbridge, Birmingham

PHILIP GREEN CONSIDERS MOVING PRODUCTION BACK TO UK FACTORIES

According to Reuters, Philip Green, the chief of the Arcadia Group, has joined the conversation on UK manufacturing. M&I thinks it is promising that someone of his stature should be considering shifting some production back to Britain.

"When the market is as it is you want to manage as near home as you can. That's why there's some debate about UK manufacturing and people actually opening some new factories," Green told the Retail Week conference.

"Is suddenly all our production coming back here? No. Is there an opportunity to do some production here? Hopefully there is and we're going to try," Green added.

Image from Cooper Stollbrand, Manchester (one of the factories that has recently produced items for Topshop, part of the Arcadia Group)

BUSINESS CARDS No. 1 : JAMES SMITH & SON

This superlative retailer of umbrellas and sticks can be found in Holborn, London.

COBBLERS : FROM SPITALFIELDS LIFE

'We don’t want to modernise. We don’t want to go modern, we’re not a heel bar. We’re going back to the beginning of the nineteenth century. There’s a lot of people bringing vintage shoes and we can take them apart and put them back together again. There’s nothing we can’t do to a pair of shoes here.' Ken Hines, cobbler at Well Heeled, Bethnal Green, London E2.

Quote from this piece from Spitalfields Life on the work of cobblers in the area.

As the tag from many a reputable cobbler reads: 'Shoes worth wearing are worth repairing.'

Image from Spitalfields Life

REDESIGNING DESIGN, REMAKING MAKING AT LONDON DESIGN FESTIVAL

M&I was lucky enough to attend a fascinating talk on manufacturing and its future on Friday afternoon at The Tramshed.

First up was Luis de Oliveira, principal of Portugese company De La Espada who talked about ‘decentralised companies’; using local production, small runs and frequent innovation. Oliveira believes this business model to be ‘a decade away.’

Furniture designer Matthew Hilton then told a story about one of his early products - a candlestick made in Charlton, packaged in felt bags from Hackney, sold through the UK retailer Joseph. (If anyone would like to give us one of these, do feel free.)

Hilton now works for Habitat and has a global perspective on manufacturing. He illustrated his experience with a video of some Sri Lankans making a chair to his specfications. Being versed in more traditional methods, the Sri Lankans couldn’t quite create the modern style required. ‘Older manufacturing is more forgiving than new methods’ concluded Hilton.

Theo Williams, creative director of Habitat gave a compelling talk on bridging the gap between design and development, stating that it is ‘essential.’ Williams suggests that we need to move closer to the Italian design model - quicker reaction times, locally produced products.

‘Communications need to get stronger and more focused. We need to understand better what the consumer wants,’ Williams said, warning of giving over too much power to the consumer, ‘There needs to be a parameter for consumers to work within.’

‘Customisation to customerisation’ is taking hold and this is partly due to design, development and manufacturing moving closer together. Williams also gave examples of Habitat making certain products in the UK. Sadly there were no illustrations of this but he referred to a ‘small guy in Cornwall.’ He rounded off his section mentioning that Robin Day can get on a train to his supplier - ‘a big thing.’

Thanks to the parties behind London Design Festival for bringing such a good group of speakers together.

Picture from Matthew Hilton Tear Sheets - De La Espada

OLIVER SPENCER & ANOTHER COUNTRY

Another Country? No, still very much to do with products made in the UK, fear not. M&I attended a tastefully modest event at Oliver Spencer's shop on Lambs Conduit St, London last night. On display was a fine array of understated furniture from Dorset based Another Country. We couldn't hang around for long but enjoyed what we saw and appreciated the hospitable nature of the hosts.

Thanks to Oliver Spencer (lovely shop with some excellent clothing on a very pleasant road in WC1N) and Another Country for the invite.

The image above is from the excellent Another Country gallery. We took some pictures that are not quite as good and they can be found here.

MANUFACTURE & INDUSTRY'S FAVOURITE RETAILERS IN LONDON AND BEYOND

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SIGNAGE

A fine selection of retail signage purchased at Clark Bros. Publicity. This wonderful shop can be found at 34/36 Thomas Street, Manchester M4 1ER