FIELD TRIP NO. 1: TRICKER'S, NORTHAMPTON

What with all of the shoe factory posts I have been seeing of late I thought it might be nice to dig this early M&I field trip post out of the archive.

Walking through Northampton town centre shortly after 9am on a Wednesday morning it seemed bereft of life. The high street had three pound/99p shops within close proximity of each other and a gentleman's club offering 'topless football.'

After navigating the unfriendly road network I eventually arrived at the address that was scrawled in my diary: 56-60 St. Michael's Road. Across the road is an old, disused shoe factory - it is in a sorry state. The home of Tricker's however, audibly buzzes with life as you cross the street.

Stepping into the modest reception area I thought I would be asked to head to another premises in order to get to the factory store. Instead, the friendly receptionist led me across the factory floor to the shop, situated at the rear of the building. As we walked, my mind tried to absorb everything around me - neatly stacked yellow lasts, a young cobbler applying colour to a leather sole, the noise of different processes, a radio playing The Smiths 'How Soon is Now?' at a level suitable only to that of a working factory.

Deposited in the box-like shop I was soon joined by David, a gregarious salesman who oozed enthusiasm for the quality of the product. We had a wide ranging conversation that took in the huge demand for the product at present and problems that stem from this (Robbie Williams was spotted wearing a pair of Tricker's recently.) We also discussed traditional shoemaking methods as well as ridiculous health and safety laws and old buildings.

After trying on a pair of Ripon boots and having problems with the leather sole, David unearthed a pair of Wetherbys, complete with commando soles, perfect. I paid up, and with a firm handshake David showed me the way out, 'through the car park, turn right.' It turns out my foray on the factory floor was a bonus.

Strolling back to the station, the town had come alive, the sun bouncing off of the impressive Guildhall and All Saints Church. I stopped to have a coffee in an Italian cafe where one older gentleman appeared to know everyone who came through the door. I am looking forward to returning to Northampton.

COBBLERS : FROM SPITALFIELDS LIFE

'We don’t want to modernise. We don’t want to go modern, we’re not a heel bar. We’re going back to the beginning of the nineteenth century. There’s a lot of people bringing vintage shoes and we can take them apart and put them back together again. There’s nothing we can’t do to a pair of shoes here.' Ken Hines, cobbler at Well Heeled, Bethnal Green, London E2.

Quote from this piece from Spitalfields Life on the work of cobblers in the area.

As the tag from many a reputable cobbler reads: 'Shoes worth wearing are worth repairing.'

Image from Spitalfields Life

TRICKER'S BESPOKE SHOES

WHAT IS INVOLVED?

Initially our experienced staff take a number of measurements – this allows for a last to the shape of your foot to be made. During the initial appointment with the lastmaker, you choose the style, leather and sole that you would like.

Twelve to fifteen weeks later, you attend your first fitting, at this stage your shoes are half finished. This allows for any adjustments that may or may not be

needed.

If an adjustment is required this usually takes seven to eight weeks and you return for a further fitting.

If after the fitting you feel comfortable with the shoes they will

then be finished. This takes a further five to six weeks.

HOW MUCH DOES IT COST?

A pair of bespoke shoes costs from £850, which includes the making of the last.

SOME QUESTIONS THAT WE ARE SOMETIMES ASKED:

Why does it take so long?

Tricker's bespoke shoes are made to exacting standards mainly by hand, it takes over a hundred and twenty different operations, and any new shoe needs to be rested on the last to allow it to take shape correctly.

Does the last allow for all styles of footwear?

No, generally speaking you need a last for any lace up shoes, and a separate last for any slip on shoes. This is because there is a slight difference in shape between a lace up and slip on shoe.

I wear orthotics from the hospital, can you make shoes to allow space for these?

Yes, we have a lastmaker who visits us every five to six weeks, who specialises in orthotics (we usually ask that you have a spare set that you can leave with us.)

Do I have to have a leather sole?

No you can choose from a number of sole units both leather and man made of various thickness.

Am I limited on what colour?

We offer over 50 different leathers for you to choose from, we can even incorporate more then one colour in a pair of shoes, even canvas and leather together.

Do I have choice of style?

We offer over 70 different styles and combinations for you to choose from and we are always happy to advise on choice.

Will you make to my own design?

Whenever possible we try to accommodate your wishes, But regrettably we can not always do this.

Do I need to make an appointment?

No unless you have any medical requirements you do not always need an appointment, but it is always best to check beforehand, if you are making a special journey that one of our experienced staff is available when you intend to visit. If you do have special requirements an appointment will be necessary with our lastmaker.

For more details contact us at:

TRICKER'S

67 JERMYN STREET

LONDON

SW1Y 6NY

TEL: 0207 930 6395

Email: jermynstreet@trickers.com

TENUE DE NIMES X GRENSON

We admire the work of Amsterdam based Tenue de Nimes and are looking forward to seeing their collaboration with Grenson. We understand that the boots pictured above will be available at the end of January.

Grenson's manufacturing process takes place in Rushden, where the Tenue de Nimes team were fortunate enough to pay a visit recently. Click on the title for more.

GRENSON

The people behind Journal de Nimes were fortunate enough to visit the Grenson factory in Rushden, Northamptonshire, yesterday. We look forward to seeing a full report of the visit in their publication due out next year.